Wednesday, June 30, 2010

USA v. Ghana

A few days ago I watched the USA v. Ghana game at Maseru Sun.
I knew that I had to wear or hold something to show my "go USA!" spirit. So, I tracked down two pieces of white paper (had one of the lectures printed on one side) and red and blue sharpies. I draw an American flag on the blank side of one paper and then wrote "Go USA!" on the other. We didn't have any tape, so I stuck them together with bobby pins. Then I found our wooden kitchen spoon and attached the paper to it with clothesline pins. and voila! I had my own, homemade flag!

The game was a lot of fun (despite the outcome...)! We met up with some of the Baylor doctors and residents that work at the clinic and about six or seven peace corp members. We took up the front right corner of the room and were adorned with flags and national pride. When the Star Spangled Banner began to play we stood up and sang along while the other 3/4 of the room laughed and chuckled at us. Then, when Ghana's anthem began to play everyone else in the room leapt up and filled the room with cheers.

I also learned that the mysterious Americans who I've seen at the other games, are actually peace corp members. They're all just-out-of-college and have that "I can live in a hut and climb mountains all day long in my t-shirt, prairie skirt, and sneakers and be completely happy" vibe. Basically, I think they're awesome.

In the end, despite our loss, I was actually fairly happy because it meant that Africa still had a team in the World Cup. I guess if it's their first time ever hosting, they deserve to have at least one team from their continent make it to the top 8.

video scan of the room

towards the end of the game when it was really close i took a series of pictures of the crowd next to me, i enjoyed seeing their change in expressions:








(from the left) dr. rajni, me, khadi, kim, and david (you can see my homemade flag between kim and david)


random cottage pictures:

Lina and her persimmon

steaming dinner

Monday, June 28, 2010

Day 19

I want you to imagine your local hospital. The one with thirty something floors and glass windows all the way around it. With specialists for everything imaginable and nurses tending to every need. With its up to date equipment and sanitary, organized rooms.

Now I want you to squish the hospital down to one, expansive level with disjointed buildings. I want you to take the patients from their personal, spacious rooms and squeeze them all into a single one so that there is only a square of space left in the middle for doctors and nurses to stand and take notes. I want you to take the perfectly painted walls and scratch half of the paint off. I want you to let jars of cockroaches loose so that they constantly run up and down the walls. I want you to break the door hinges and pop out a few windows. I want you to throw away 85% of your supplies, so that you’re left with not enough anesthetic, not enough gauze, not enough oxygen tanks, not enough tubes, no pulse monitors, and for the sake of this post never ending, not enough anything. I want you to flicker the electricity on and off randomly throughout the week and leave any patients dependent on electrical machines struggling for air. I want you to put up bulletin boards, but then water stain them and cover them with out of date papers. I want you to fire most of the nursing staff, so you only have three or four nurses for an entire ward. I want you to… okay you get the point.

The mental image you are left with is a depiction of Queen Elizabeth II hospital: the go-to and most up to date medical facility in the entire country. I went there this past morning and shadowed Dr. Akash. He gave me a tour of the pediatric ward.

You first walk into the “main room.” It has a nurse’s desk and four patient beds protruding from the wall that are labeled with sharpied numbers on the wall above them. There’s a kid sleeping with a bandage on his face and blood covering his pillow in the first, two boys being served their lunch of beans, a pathetically small pear, and three slices of bread off of the meal cart in the second and third, and a boy sitting and staring out the window in the forth.

There’s a door in the wall that leads to the single examination room. It’s the size of a bathroom. Inside, there’s a single wooden bench with green paint peeling off, a metal sink coming out of the wall, a wooden stool, a dining room chair and a wooden picnic table covered with a pediatric textbook and a guide to tropical diseases. And, as if that wasn’t enough to make it cramped, there’s also a small desk with a beige, ancient looking computer with a printer balancing on top of it, and an orange swivel chair. Oh and don’t fret, Dr. Akash explained that the rancid, rotting smell was most likely a dead rat that was slowly decaying in some crevice of the room.

Then there’s the neonatal room. It has five cribs wedged inside. Each crib has a hodge podge of blankets and either one or two infants resting inside. The sides of the cribs are all down so that the mothers who are kneeling beside them can hold their hands and provide them with some sort of comfort as they struggle to breathe and wiggle around. There are three more patient rooms attached to this that are equally inadequate.

As I walked through I saw children who were so emaciated that their flesh was sunken in everywhere there wasn’t a physical bone. Their limbs looked like they could snap with a simple flex of their nonexistent muscles.

I saw kids gasping for air. I saw kids with rashes covering their faces and teeth that seemed to have an excessive amount of space between them as a result of decay. I saw a baby with a face so swollen that her eyes had been reduced to slits.

I saw kids walking with wooden makeshift crutches and a boy who was a hemophiliac and had broken his arm. Apparently, the doctors should have drained it immediately, but bandaged it instead. As a result, it had scarred and his arm movement was reduced to a 90 degree angle at the elbow with an extension of maybe 15 degrees in each direction.

I saw an HIV positive four-month-old come who was so severely malnourished that her attempts to cry came out as mere puffs of air.

Dr. Akash and I made our rounds. The air was suffocating and smelled like fermenting vomit and blood. About thirty minutes in, a doctor asked for his assistance in a procedure. I followed them to the treatment room and hastily put on the pair of rubber gloves that were thrown to me. I watched as they unearthed the room for anesthetic (luckily, there was some in the surgical room) and a needle. We proceeded to the neonatal room, squished around the first crib, and started the procedure. I was given the job of keeping the seven-month-old infant’s arm held up while they sutured the hole. She had a deflated lung. They had initially put in two tubes to help her recover and had recently removed one. Our job was to close the hole left behind. As soon as he lifted the bandage, the hole gaped open. It was about the size of half a nickel. He injected the anesthetic and blood immediately began to run down her side.

The doctor who had placed the tube had accidentally made it too large and had made it too deep: it reached all the way down into her lung. Ever time she took a breath I could hear the air being let out of the hole and her gasp to get enough oxygen. I watched as he took a needle that looked like the end of a fishing hook threaded with string and began to suture the hole. He skillfully threaded it through one stitch at a time and, stitch by stitch, shrink the size of it. I looked into her wide eyes and soon looked away as if my ignorance would make her hurt less. I desperately wanted to scoop her up and cradle her, but could only stroke her arm with a single latex finger.

I don’t know if it was the fact that I was dehydrated or that I was just shocked by the situation, but, in that moment, the smells seemed to intensify, time seemed to slow, and my vision began to blur. I was determined to stay standing and involved in the procedure, but as my vision became fuzzier, I gave up and told the doctor that I needed to get a drink of water. I gave him her arm, pulled off the gloves, and hastily went out into the ward. I walked out of the nearest door and ended up in a littered ally way. I sat on a semi circle of concrete and put my head in my hands. But, only for a few seconds. I owed it to the patients to get back up, brush myself off, and do everything in my power to help them.



If you’re still reading this post, wow, I’m impressed. I was hesitant to put something so long on my blog, but I figured that at least I have a chance of someone reading it if it’s up here. I know that right now I’m just an impulsive adolescent who makes decisions and commitments based on spur of the moment feelings and experiences, but I've decided that whatever I end up doing with my future, it involves coming back and helping: hopefully more competent and more able to give than to take.

And maybe, you’ll come with me.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Weekend! (Days 13 and 14)


On Saturday Khadi and I helped out with Teen Club. They meet twice a month: once with the younger group (12-14) and once with the older group (15-18). It's a type of support group for teens living with HIV. We mainly just helped out with check-in, setting up for the discussion groups, and serving lunch. We also met the mini group leaders (they were broken into two groups of girls and two groups of boys). Many of them have worked with teen club for multiple years (it started in 2008). They were all amazingly dediated to the kids and I could tell that they'd become especially close to the kids in their groups.

woke up to a lamb in our yard. awesome.

first thing on the agenda: group ice breakers

more ice breakers (human bingo)

khadi and i helped serve lunch!

the caterers were so friendly and warm! the woman in the pink argyle sweater had one of the most hearty laughs i've ever heard. we took multiple pictures of them and every time they were excited to look at them and laugh at their frozen images.

the food was so good! it's definitely some of the best food i've had while i've been here: yams, salad, cabbage coleslaw thing, beef stew (o but don't worry, they had fish sticks for me and the one other vegetarian!), rice, and beets (one of the staple foods here). i definitely went for seconds


seventy-two scooped out lunches later...

lunches ready to be distributed

the kids then came by the open window and picked up their lunches!

juice!

i feel like some kind of weird egomaniac posting pictures of myself, but khadi took them and i figured you'd want to see them...






after teen club we decided to walk around "downtown." i put that in quotation marks because it cosists of one street (Kingsway) that holds about thirty shops on either side (a few banks, handful of restaurants (two kfc's!), one grocery store, and a bunch of clothing shops (and street vendors of course!))
it turns out that stores close around 2-3pm on saturdays, so the only thing open for us 3:30pm latecomers was the fruit and veg, which is basically the lesotho version of whole foods, so naturally i had to go inside!
it's a cattle: a can bottle (it had a pop top)

they even had the nut and dried fruit dispensers that i love!

bell peppers! yayy produce!

produce pose

see that grey awning across the street? that's where i got my new mix cd! 113 mp3 tracks for R20 (about R7.5=$1), pretty good deal :)

street vendors

o and ps. this is the newest addition to our house! meet khadi, she grew up in Harlem NY, and is a junior at Southwestern, her family's from Mali, and she's absolutely amazing!

Bafana Bafana!

Tonight South Africa plays France! We all obviously know who's going to win! The World Cup fervor is insane! There's a hotel called the Maseru Sun that everyone goes to for the games. There's so much camaraderie, it's crazy!

Foreigner's Guide to South African Football:
  • You do not chant "Go South Africa." You scream and bellow "bafana bafana!"
  • Bafana Bafana means "the boys, the boys"
  • If you are conversing with anyone in any context and have no idea what to say and even if neither of you speaks the language that the other does, a simple cry of bafana bafana with a fist pump will ensure immediate friendship and approval.
  • If you wake up at 6am to what sounds like a large heard of angry cows, you need not worry about an agricultural animal invasion, it is only the cry of vuvuzelas echoing through the town.
  • You support bafana bafana. You physically bleed green and yellow. You dream about their winning goals and know in your heart that they are the best. There is no choice. No really, you were born to yell "ayoba!"
  • If South Africa scores, comes close to scoring, or ever touches the ball you are to blow your vuvuzela as loud as possible. You may risk impairing the hearing of all those around you, but that is no matter, the only thing that matters is that you (and everyone else in the room) blow your instrument so tremendously loud that the sound waves actually make it from your mouth, through the mountains, down into the stadium, and into the player's eardrums. Don't let the fact that you're in some Lesotho restaurant hundreds of miles away fool you. Your screams actually do make a difference in the final outcome.




above is footage from the last south africa game that i saw at a place called the "maseru sun," the game was projected on a huge wall

So anyways, this is where I'm headed tonight, go Bafana Bafana!

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Tidbits About HIV in Lesotho

Dr. Rajni gave us this lecture on Monday and there was so much information that I found fascinating and shocking that I needed to share it with you!
  • There are approximately 1.8 million people living in Lesotho (the entire country)
  • the population is expected to decrease by 191,000 between now and 2050, partially due to the HIV epidemic
  • life expectancy for both sexes: 36
  • happy stat: 85% of the adult population is literate (more women are than men and more girls are enrolled in schools than boys)
Here's where it gets especially shocking:
  • 33 million people are living with HIV throughout the world (16.5 million women, 14.5 million men, 2 million children under 15 years)
  • 70% of women and 90% (N-I-N-E-T-Y PERCENT) of the children infected with HIV live in southern Africa
In Lesotho specifically:
  • 1 in 4 adults are HIV positive
  • about 110,000 children have either been single or double orphaned by HIV/AIDS
Here's where it gets more positive
  • Number of adults (15-49) on ARVs in 2004: 1000
  • Number of adults on ARVs in 2007: 20,240
  • Number of children (under 15) on ARVs in 2005: under 20
  • Same statistic now: over 3,000 in the Baylor clinic alone
ARVs were only made widely available for children in Lesotho in 2004. Without them, 40% of children would die by age 1 and 50% by age 2.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Day 8

I woke up freezing. I grabbed for more blankets, but was still unusually cold. I reached towards the heater to see how warm it was, but found it cold. It turns out that our power went out in the middle of the night. We run off the same power source the clinic does, so it meant that we were both out. I threw on the warmest clothes I could find, brushed my teeth, grabbed my water bottle and peanut butter-banana-and-honey-on-bread-breakfast and headed off to the clinic.

It’s about 9:45am and I’m running off the battery power left on my laptop.

The computer system was working a bit this morning, but shut off after about an hour. They’ve stopped seeing patients until the power comes back on, but on the bright side of things it means that I can write this post! I’m currently wearing cotton socks, wool socks, hiking boots, long underwear, khakis, tank top, long sleeve shirt, v-neck sweater, and a fleece (I’m debating whether or not I should put my gloves on…). But I am warm! The clinic’s usually pretty well heated, it’s just the lack of power that’s making it colder than usual. Our cottage is almost always chilly. Luckily, we have heaters we can huddle around and plenty of tea!

And on that note, TEA TEA TEA! I LOVE TEA! I drink 3-6 cups a day. Seriously, it’s the best. I drink either earl grey or three roses and doctor it up with soymilk and sugar. Not only is it delicious, but it keeps me warm! We have one of those electric water boilers and it’s definitely the most used appliance in our cottage. They also serve it everywhere here! And not just a little steaming mug, but they serve it with a full tea set with a little teapot, a little cup of milk, an equally mini cup of sugar, and a teacup. It’s awesome. Okay, this love session is over. But basically, you should drink tea.

Tea and Me

Okay so anyways. Problem: no power = electric water boiler doesn’t work. I’m contemplating making a small fire outside of my cottage to heat up my tea, but for fear of looking like a crazed, white, caveman, attempting to prehistorically heat water, I decided to bear the withdrawal instead.

Just made a trek to the bathroom. I say trek because it’s pitch black in the bathroom, so I had to use a cell phone light to navigate J.

me in the bathroom

power came back on. ended up shadowing Rajni until noon, heard a lecture on HIV epidemiology, and then discussed more future projects with Meena.
The lecture was fascinating! I'll make sure to post some of the tidbits I learned later. But in summary lecture=inspiration to work harder.

life at the cottage

cottage of chefs! (it's like living in the food network, there's always something cooking)

dinner! (rice, lentils, and mixed vegetables)

Day 7 (weavers at TY)


On Sunday we still had our rental car, so we went to see the weavers in Teyateyaneng. It was about an hours drive from Maseru. We visited a few weaving centers, St. Agnes High School, and saw the work that goes into making their tapestries.

it's hard to read, but the sign says "welcome to st. agnes high school"

they also had a St. Agnes weaving center

mural on the side of the school

the building behind me was where the actual weaving took place, but they weren't working when we were there

St. Agnes Mission gallery


We also visited "Sesotho Weavers." We toured the weaving center and were able to see them at work.

sign right outside the weaving center

weavers finishing a tapestry

this tapestry was titled "witch doctors," after a month of weaving it was halfway done

"witch doctors," it was amazing to see how they thread each string through by hand and how much patience and diligence it takes

She had just completed the smaller tapestry on the top of the board (about one month's work)

the woman who walked us through told us that each tapestry takes 1-2 months to complete (aka as long as it would

their gallery!

they were all so beautiful! these were ones i found especially amazing:




"dancers of peace"


the one i came home with!



o and i may have heard from multiple people that the food here is fairly safe (and from others i heard not...) but i've had such a strong craving for greens that i caved. bring it on, giardia.